Go white water sledging in Rotorua
Jump right in for some fun
White water sledging
When someone says ‘winter sledging’ what’s the first thing that comes to mind? Thick snow, warm boots and funny hats on the slopes followed by après drinks around the fire, right? Nope, that’s not how we roll here in the North Island where the water-based action never stops.
Instead, our idea this winter was to put on our wetsuits (summer ones we might add) and a pair of fins and throw ourselves into the Kaituna river, just north of Lake Rotorua. To be honest, prior to this weekend’s excursion, we’d never heard of river sledging, or hydrospeeding as it’s also called. In fact, we actually thought we’d booked a Kaituna river rafting experience on a GrabOne voucher. It was only when we confirmed our booking that we realised we were in for a different ride altogether. As it turned out, it was the best mistake we could ever have made.
We left Auckland early on Saturday morning and drove through various forms of constant rain all the way down to Rotorua. Oh well we reckoned, it’s not like we’re going to get any wetter on the river. It wasn’t looking any better by the time we arrived at Kaitiaki Adventures’ base on the eastern shore of Lake Rotorua where the friendly staff eyed us up and down as if to say who are these unusually cheerful people on a day like this? ‘Are you sure you want to go sledging today?’ they said. ‘Hell yeah’ we said. Over the next half an hour, other equally keen adventurers arrived but it soon became apparent that they were all there for rafting. This was a real bonus for us because by the time we all had to climb aboard Kaitiaki’s bus and head over to Okere Falls, we were the only two sledging with our two guides, Drax and Hemi.
Okere Falls Track
After a safety briefing and a rundown on what we could expect, it was off to our entry point on the river, the large pool below Tutea Falls (more on that later). To get to the falls, we walked for about 10 minutes along the Okere Falls Track, a well-formed bushwalk that follows the Okere River. If you’re not interested in getting wet, this short, easy walk is a great way to see the Kaituna, Tutea and Okere Falls. You can find more info on this track at DOC NZ.
From the Okere Falls Track we walked down Hinemoa’s Steps, a steep and narrow stone pathway cut into the rockface leading to Tutea’s Cave. This entire area is significant in Māori history and the story goes that in times of war, the woman and children of the local hapū (clan) would descend using ropes and hide in this cave to avoid the bloodshed. This was quite a sobering thought as we stood at the entrance of the cave and Drax made a karakia (incantation/prayer) for our protection in the river. This was in fact the first time we’d ever experienced a Māori karakia and it really brought home just how much respect the Māori have for their culture and the land.
Into the Okere River
Now those of you with a keen eye may have noticed that we previously mentioned throwing ourselves into the Kaituna River. Technically it is the Kaituna River but this first section is more commonly called the Okere River which means “the place of drifting”. Clearly, whoever came up with this name chose to ignore the “falling over the falls” section of the river that comes after the drifting part. But once we hit the water, we were way too excited to think about that as we grabbed our boards and got a feel for manoeuvring them against the flow and practiced righting ourselves after a roll. Being used to bodyboarding in the sea, it didn’t take long for us to get the hang of things and we were soon off through the steep canyon walls towards our first rapid. Before each rapid, our guides would give us a quick brief on the best line to take and then it was “heads down and hold on”. We had so much fun that on a couple of the runs we actually headed back upstream to do a little rapid ‘surfing’.
Our ride through the five rapids (or was it six – we were having so much fun it was all a blur) was amazing and Drax and Hemi were simply awesome. I’m sure they’re like this with every group, and maybe it was the fact that it was just the two of us, but we really felt like we were getting special treatment which made the day all that more special. The four of us didn’t stop laughing the whole way but at the same time, we felt safe knowing that our guides were keeping a watchful eye over us.
Speaking of safety, the full Okere River run is rated as a Grade 5, starting above Tutea falls and consisting of 14 rapids and 3 falls. Sledging on the other hand is only over the last third of the run but it’s still great fun and fine for anyone reasonably confident on the water. Rafting on the Okere is however a different story thanks to the fact that at 7m, Tutea is currently the highest commercially rafted falls in the world. As it turned out on the day, those who thought we were mad to go sledging and that they had made the smarter choice to go rafting were in for a surprise as you can see below. It’s all pretty safe though and we’ll definitely be going back to do the falls ourselves some time.
It’s hard to say goodbye Rotorua
We stayed over in Rotorua on Saturday night at a great B&B near Whakarewarewa (thanks for the cake Vivien) and on Sunday morning, before heading back to Auckland, we decided to drive via Okere Falls to have another look at the river and see if the Kaitiaki crew were back on the water. Sure enough they were there and up to their usual tricks, giving a new bunch of adventure-junkies an experience to remember… along with a good rinse.
Kaitiaki Adventures
We were really impressed with the team at Kaitiaki Adventures who were friendly and professional throughout. If you’re heading to Rotorua and looking for some white water rafting and sledging action, they’ll look after you.
Visit White Island
A unique volcanic experience
White Island
With a distinctive white plume that’s visible from as far away as Mount Tarawera almost 100 km to the west, White Island is New Zealand’s most active volcano. This desolate island, located approximately 50 km off the East Coast of New Zealand’s North Island was aptly named Te Puia o Whakaari (The Dramatic Volcano) by the local Māori and has been in a constant state of unrest and occasional eruption since it was first documented by Captain James Cook in 1769.
Privately owned and declared a scenic reserve in 1953, the island is only accessible with authorised tourism operators. We were fortunate enough to explore the island as part of a weekend dive charter with New Zealand Diving and Cascade Charters who operate out of Whakatane. And in case you’re wondering, yes, the diving off White Island is incredible, with an abundance of sea life and a rather unique experience involving bubbles, but we’ll save that for another article.
A living volcano with a tragic past
Had Captain Cook first encountered the island today and actually stepped ashore, he may well have named it Yellow Island instead after coming face to face with this alien looking landscape.
These mounds are formed by the sulphurous gases released from steaming vents on the crater floor, and this sulphur is pretty much everywhere. As it turns out, sulphur is quite a handy substance, found in everything from fireworks to fertilizer and even skin cream so sulphur mining has been attempted on the island from as far back as the 1880s. Unfortunately this first came to a tragic end in September 1914 when the western crater rim collapsed, creating a lahar which killed all 10 workers on the island, leaving only the cat as sole survivor. Since then, mining has been attempted several times but eventually ceased in the 1930s. All that now remains are corroded machines and the remnants of the ore processing plant.
Gas masks and hardhats required (The lollies are optional)
On the Sunday afternoon of our visit, having spent the morning diving from first light (a benefit of having moored off the island the previous night), we joined a Pee Jay tour group that had arrived from Whakatane. One of the first things you see on arriving at the small jetty are these colourful ‘rusting’ boulders that give a hint of what’s to come as you head into the crater.
But not before signing the obligatory disclaimer any adventurer will know all too well, only this time with the addition of death by poisonous gasses and bubbling sulphuric acid pits that could swallow you at any moment. Ok, maybe a bit of an exaggeration, but not too far from the truth given that this really is an active volcano that is typically at Alert Level 1 on a scale of 1 to 5. Fortunately, White Island is constantly monitored by New Zealand’s GeoNet team whose job it is to to detect, analyse and respond to earthquakes, volcanic activity, tsunami and large landslides and as you walk around the crater, you’ll see several of their monitoring stations high up on the crater walls. The work the team does is pretty fascinating and you can read more about it on the GeoNet website.
Having signed our disclaimers we were each handed a hardhat and a gas mask along with a selection of lollies. You may be tempted to think that the gas mask is just a precaution. It’s not. And even if you don’t like or feel like sucking on a lolly, our advice is ‘take the lollies’. You’ll be thankful later as they do help to soothe the throat.
Suitably prepared, we followed our guide towards the main crater, being careful to stick to the path as instructed, as the ground was noticeably unstable in places. Soon we could hear the hiss and roar of the steam vents and as we approached we were enveloped in clouds of gas. Even with our masks we found it difficult to breathe, but the incredible patterns and shapes of the bright yellow sulphur kept us enthralled.
After a few minutes, and feeling suitably ‘steamed’, we headed towards the crater lake itself. What you’ll see will largely depend on how active the volcano is on the day but we looked down on a bubbling, steaming greyish green pool that you definitely don’t want to go swimming in.
From the lake we headed towards the eastern side of the crater which, by comparison, feels a little ‘calmer’, certainly on the surface, but is no less dramatic, and the high crater walls are beautiful, a real tapestry of colours.
Something we weren’t expecting to see are the two small streams that run along the crater floor. This may seem odd but thinking about it, all the rain that falls on the island has got to go somewhere if not into the crater lake itself. What’s really interesting is that as these streams make their way towards the sea, the water in each stream picks up different minerals which makes for a rather unusual taste test. No really, it’s quite safe but don’t actually drink the water, just dip your finger in and taste. Don’t worry, your tour guide won’t immediately come running with a first aid kit. In fact they’ll most likely encourage you to do it as it’s all part of the White Island experience. We won’t give away any more than that.
As we headed towards the ruins of the old mining buildings we heard the unmistakeable sound of a helicopter approaching. No, it wasn’t an imminent evacuation, it was some very fortunate tourists who had flown in from Whakatane with Kahu NZ. Note to self: start saving now for the deluxe White Island package next time. ?
After spending some time exploring the ruins of the mining plant it was back to the jetty to rinse our shoes before boarding the Pee Jay vessel that was to take us back to Whakatane, a 2 hour trip complete with dolphin sighting. This gave us ample time to reflect on our weekend spent at White Island. And what a weekend it was, with incredible diving, and the opportunity to experience this alien but stunningly beautiful landscape. So if you’re visiting New Zealand and have any doubt about whether or not to do this activity, our advice is – do it, you won’t regret it.
Climb Mount Manaia
A good step workout
Mount Manaia
Driving north from Auckland, Highway 1 (SH 1) is a fairly unremarkable stretch of road until approximately 30km north of Wellsford where it reaches Brynderwyn and winds its way up and over the Brynderwyn Range. This ridge, while not an official boundary, marks for us at least, the beginning of ‘The North’ and we’re always filled with a sense of excitement when we catch that first glimpse of Bream Head from the top of the pass as it means we’re off to do something exciting.
As you get closer to Whangarei and start to make out the detail of Bream Head and nearby Mount Manaia you may well be saying to yourself ‘That looks interesting, I wonder if I could climb those mountains?’. The good news is yes you can, and if you’re in the Whangarei area with time on your hands, you definitely should. While both Bream Head and Mount Manaia are accessible, Bream Head and a visit to Ocean Beach is more of a day affair whereas Mount Manaia is a fairly quick climb, but you better like steps, and lot’s of them.
The track which starts near the Mt Manaia Country Club on Whangarei Heads Road, about 30 km east of Whangarei, is only 3.5 km in total from the car park to the summit and back. It’s very well formed and easy to follow, and you can expect to take 2 – 3 hours. That said, it seems to be a popular jogging spot with locals and who can blame them – it beats spending 2 hours on a step machine in the gym staring at the wall or a TV screen. However, being popular with both locals and visitors means that the track can get fairly busy so our advice would be to tackle this early. Not only is it cooler, but you’ll also get to enjoy a spectacular sunrise if the weather’s as good as it was on the day we climbed the mountain.
For most of the track you’ll be climbing steadily through regenerating bush with only the occasional glimpse of the views about to unfold. But once you reach the first of the rocky outcrops and emerge from the bush you’ll finally get to see how high you’ve climbed. The track continues along the ridge until you reach a final set of wooden stairs which will lead you on to a viewing point for the final big reveal with panoramic views of Whangarei Harbour to your west and Bream Head to the southeast. In the far distance you’ll also see the jagged outline of Taranga Island, part of the Hen & Chicken group of islands. Interestingly, all of these peaks including Mt Manaia are the remnants of a large volcano estimated to have been some 50 km in diameter. It’s a little hard to imagine, but you’ll get a sense of scale when you’re up there.
For most, the rocky viewpoint is as far they’ll go, but if you like to explore and have a head for heights there is in fact a ‘hidden’ path which continues further along the ridge. We won’t give away too many details and spoil your adventure but the photo below gives a little hint of what to expect as you continue along the ridge. Enjoy, but be safe.
Explore Waipu Cove
Northland’s version of Punakaiki
Waipu Cove
New Zealand’s East Coast and West Coast beaches can feel worlds apart. The rugged beauty of the west coast’s iron-rich black sand lies in stark contrast to the east coast’s more tropical feel, with eye-wateringly white beaches like Rarawa supposedly having some of the world’s purest silica sand. At times, it’s easy to forget that in you’re in the same country, such is the diverse natural beauty of New Zealand’s coastline.
But every now and again, as we explore, we discover unexpected similarities such as Pancake Rocks. Now we know what some of you may be thinking, Punakaiki, been there and seen those, but did you know that the North Island has it’s own version of Pancake Rocks. Not quite as spectacular we’ll admit, but still well worth a visit if you’re in the Waipu area.
Getting here
Waipu Cove is a small seaside town about 115 km north of Auckland. In summer, families flock to this popular holiday destination to swim in the azure water and enjoy the white sand beach which stretches north to the mouth of the Waipu River and beyond in a long crescent, all the way to the mouth of Whangarei Harbour some 20 km away. While most visitors spend all their time lazing on the beach, many overlook the beautiful coastline just to the south with its local ‘secret’.
Fortunately, for those of us who like to explore, this stretch of coast is accessible thanks to the local Lions Club who developed the Waipu Coastal Trail. There are two parts to this trail, the first is a 2 km track from Waipu Beach to the main road at Waterman Drive. If you’re feeling a little more adventurous and don’t mind some rockhopping, there’s another 900m section that continues on to Dingle Bay at the northern end of Langs Beach, but keep an eye on high tide unless you don’t mind getting wet ?
Waipu Pancake Rocks
If you don’t have time to walk the full trail you can just walk to the pancake rocks and back again, starting at Waipu Cove where there is parking, toilets and cafes. Bear in mind that it can get pretty busy on summer weekends so you may want to pick your timing to avoid the crowds, earlier obviously being better.
To find the start of the track you’ll need to cross the small stream at the southern end of Waipu beach. If you’ve timed it right you should be able to simply hop across, but if the tide is in you may be giving your toes a little rinse before you even start. Once over the stream, you can either head left up the small hill, the site of a Māori pā (defensive settlement), and enjoy views of the beach stretching north, or you can simply head right along the coast.
The track itself, while easy to find and well marked (thank you Waipu Lions), is not as popular and well worn as others and on the day we were there it was a little wet and slippery in places so you’ll want to watch your footing – a little difficult we’ll admit as you admire the views of Whangarei Heads to your north, the Hen and Chicken Islands to the east and the amazing azure water below you.
After about 20 minutes, the track reaches a small grove of clifftop Pōhutukawa trees, some of which appear to be growing out of the rocks themselves, and you’ll start to see the layers that give these rocks their name.
Unlike Punakaiki’s rocks which you mostly enjoy from a distance, here, if you feel confident enough, you can climb down and inspect the interesting layers, patterns and textures up close.
While we never got to walk the full coastal trail, the section that we did walk left us wanting more and we thoroughly enjoyed clambering around the interesting rock formations. We wouldn’t necessarily call this a must-do, but if you’re in the Mangawhai-Waipu-Whangarei area and looking for something to do on a sunny day, this trail is definitely worth considering.
Walk the Mangawhai Cliffs Walkway
A secret arch awaits
Mangawhai Cliffs Walkway
Approximately 100km north of Auckland is the small village of Mangawhai and just north of that is Mangawhai Heads. This popular seaside town epitomises laid back Kiwi living and is full of artists, craftsmen (and women) and families seeking to escape the hustle and bustle of city life. It has an estuary that makes it a perfect launching spot for boaties heading out to the nearby Hen and Chicken islands for a spot of fishing or diving, and when the swell is running from the north east, it has a good break that makes it a popular surfing spot.
Needless to say, in summer, the beach at Mangawhai Heads can get pretty busy. But if fishing, surfing or simply hanging out on the beach is not your style, don’t be tempted to give this place a miss because it offers something rather special in the form of the Mangawhai Cliffs Walkway. This looped walk (at low tide) gives you the opportunity to explore the rugged coast just north of Mangawhai Beach and offers clifftop views of nearby Bream Head to the north (another great walking spot) and on clear days, views of the northern tip of the Coromandel peninsula almost 100km to the south. For us personally, this walk is a real highlight of the area and if you do it, we’re sure you’ll feel the same way.
This 5km walk starts at Mangawhai Heads Beach itself where there is parking and toilets but no shops so you may want to stop off in the village first. There are however pop-up stalls in the busier months selling coffee or frozen yoghurt but on the day we were there, it was way too early for them.
Heading down onto the sand, you’ll walk for about 1km north along the beach until you reach a small stream and just after that, on your left, you’ll see a sign where the path begins. At this point, depending on the tide you have a choice. You can either head up to the top of the cliffs and then return via the beach, or you can continue along the beach and return via the clifftop path. The reason why tide is a factor is because at the northernmost point of the loop is a feature (more on that later) which is impassable once the tide comes in so you really want to time it to be there around low tide.
So assuming the tide is not an issue which is the best way to do the loop? It depends on your attitude towards the steps (lots of them) at the northern end of the loop. If you don’t mind a bit of a sweaty workout as you climb a seemingless endless set of stairs then do the beach section first as we did.
The further north along the beach you go, the more rugged and interesting it becomes with many coves, channels and rock pools to explore. Apart from a few signs of life, you could almost imagine that you were the only one on some deserted island far from civilisation.
Just over a kilometre from the stream, there’s a section of rock hopping before you reach a secluded beach where, if it’s hot, you can stop and rest in the shade or better yet, take a little dip. We’re not sure if this beach has an official name, but we’ve decided to call it Column Beach. It will become apparent why as you continue north.
From Column Beach, the track continues along the coast for almost another kilometre until you reach this rather spectacular looking arch which, assuming you’ve timed it correctly, you’ll be able to walk through without getting wet.
After the arch, the track makes its way back via the clifftop path. There’s nothing to stop you continuing along the coast from this point and one day we most probably will although we’re not entirely sure what we’ll find or where we’ll end up. But assuming you’re happy to head back at this point, this is where the step workout begins.
From the beach you climb steadily up the hillside through forest until the path eventually levels out. At this point, you join a section of Te Araroa, the 3,000 km walking trail (no, that’s not a typo) that stretches from the northern tip of New Zealand’s North Island all the way to the bottom of the South Island. Now that’s a walk! You can read more about it here.
Walking back along the clifftop towards Mangawhai Beach, the views are spectacular. To the north east you’ll see the jagged points of Taranga Island and looking south, you’ll see the white sands of Te Arai Beach that stretches some 9 km from the mouth of the Mangawhai estuary to Te Arai Point, another popular surf spot. 100 meters below you, you’ll get a whole new perspective on the beach you walked along earlier, complete with azure blue water if you’re as lucky as we were. Add to that some weather beaten trees and occasional stands of nikau palms and you’ll soon why we rate this walk so highly.
There’s lots to see and do along the east coast between Auckland and Whangarei but if we had to choose just a few highlights in the area, the Mangawhai cliff top walk would definitely be on our list. We’ve done it once and we’ll definitely be back there again some time. Maybe we’ll see you there ?
Climb Mount Tarawera
Climb a restlessly sleeping volcano
Mount Tarawera
In 2015 we went white water sledging just north of Rotorua with Kaitiaki Adventures. At the time we discovered that they also offered guided Mount Tarawera walks and on seeing photos of this incredible dormant volcano we promised ourselves that this would be our next adventure with Kaitiaki.
Fast forward to June 2016 and we were back in Rotorua on a perfectly clear and crisp winter’s morning to climb what, from a distance, appeared to be a very unassuming mountain. We’d paddled on Lake Tarawera in the past, from Kotukutuku Bay to the Hot Water Beach campsite and back, and we’d seen the mountain from the water but not really appreciated its beauty or understood its tragic history. That was all about to change on this trip.
A brief history of Mount Tarawera
More by chance than anything else, we’d chosen to do the Mount Tarawera hike almost 130 years to the day that the mountain last erupted. This “restlessly sleeping” volcano has erupted five times in the last 18,000 years and the Māori names given to the three domes of the mountain and even the mountain itself (tara: peak, wera: to burn or be burnt down) tells of its tumultuous past. However, it was the event which began in the early hours of June 10th 1886 that was to have the most tragic consequences for the local inhabitants of the area.
What started as an eruption of Ruawahia (rua: chasm or abyss, wahia: to break open), the central and highest dome of the mountain, spread over the course of several hours across the entire mountain to form a wall of fire and a glow that was seen from as far as Napier, some 150 km away. However, the real devastation came when the eruption spread southwest towards Lake Rotomahana (previously two smaller lakes) and molten magma mixed with water to cause a massive explosion that ejected sand, rock, lava and superheated steam several kilometres into the air. This material then fell to earth in a boiling mass which covered the landscape in deposits up to 40m deep, completely destroying villages and killing approximately 150 people. Also destroyed were the famous Pink and White Terraces, once considered to be the eighth wonder of the world. Today, only the excavated remains of Te Wairoa are visible and can be visited as The Buried Village. If you’re interested to find out more, The Buried Village website has a timeline of the events leading up to and post the eruption.
Getting cosy with Karl
We left Auckland before dawn on the Saturday morning and were treated to a spectacular sunrise on the road which was something of a relief given that the weather in the weeks leading up to our trip had been pretty rubbish. After a quick coffee by the lake, we headed over to the local information centre (i-SITE) to meet our guide from Kaitiaki Adventures. ‘Hello, you’re two very lucky people. This is the best day we’ve had all winter.’ said Karl. ‘Awesome, but where’s everybody else?’ we asked. ‘No, it’s just the two of you. Did I mention how lucky you are?’.
Faced with the choice of rattling around the back of a very empty and suitably old and battered Toyota Land Cruiser or sitting up front with Karl, we chose the latter option. It was pretty cosy, with Debs squeezed in the middle, but Karl didn’t seem to mind as we headed south on the 40 km drive to the base of the mountain.
Off the sealed road and onto gravel, we headed up the mountain, first through planted pine forest and then, as the track got narrower and steeper, through native forest that had grown back since the last eruption. Along the way we stopped to admire the view to the southwest where we could just make out the snow covered peak of Mount Ruapehu almost 150 km away. A little further along the track we stopped at an old ranger hut where we signed the usual adventure activity indemnity forms while Karl changed into his ‘serious’ shorts and gaiters. ‘You got decent boots?’ asked Karl. ‘Yes’ we said. ‘Good’.
First impressions and Mount Tarawera access
Back in the Land Cruiser we headed up the track for another 2 km past what was left of a disused airstrip, built by the American Army for training many decades before. As we drove, Karl told us stories of his ‘wilder’ days and how in his youth he often used to visit the mountain. Back then, Mount Tarawera used to be open to anyone but over the years, as visitor numbers grew, the rubbish began to pile up until Tarawera’s Ngāti Rangitihi owners (the local tribal group) decided enough was enough. Mount Tarawera access is now restricted to authorised tour operators and you’ll have to join a guided tour to even reach the mountain, with the access road gated and permanently locked.
The thing about Mount Tarawera is that it takes you by surprise, and no words can do it justice when you suddenly arrive at the crater’s edge. Nature’s palette of reds, oranges, greens, browns and greys on this battle-scarred mountain is simply breathtaking. The photo below was our best attempt to capture the moment but nothing can truly convey how we felt standing there with not a cloud in the perfect blue sky, not a breathe of wind and absolute silence. We could have gone home right there and then and been happy but Karl had much more in store for us.
Walking to the summit
We headed along the southern rim of the crater at a gentle pace, the path gradually climbing the 1.5 km to the summit. It’s not a particularly difficult walk by any stretch of the imagination and soon we found ourselves looking across at ‘the scree run’ on the opposite side of the crater. Pretty much anyone who’s done the Mt Tarawera walk will tell you about the scree run that drops steeply from the crater’s edge down into the crater itself, some 120m below.
From a distance the run looked near vertical, and it seemed as if some giant, many legged creature had crawled its way out of the crater and was perhaps waiting to devour us when we got to the other side. We would face that monster when the time came but for now, it was onwards and upwards.
We continued on the path towards the summit, stopping every few minutes to take in the increasingly beautiful view southeast towards the forest covered Ikawhenua Range, until we reached the Ruawahia dome saddle. From here you can look northeast along the crater as it stretches some 2 km towards Wahanga dome. To the southwest, the crater stretches almost another 2 km towards the Tarawera dome. Seeing the crater like this you really begin to get a sense of scale but even then, it’s hard to imagine what it must have been like up here on the night of the eruption.
From the saddle, it’s a short rock scramble up to a ridge and from there, a short walk to the trig beacon and the summit itself. At 1,111m, the summit of Ruawahia is the highest point in the area and as you would expect, the panoramic views are spectacular. All sense of time was lost as we looked out over the early morning mist on Lake Tarawera. To the northeast we could see Putauaki (Mount Edgecumbe) and just off the coast, Moutohora Island. On the horizon, almost 100 km away, we could just make out White Island, a not so restlessly sleeping volcano, something we knew first hand having visited the island a few months previously.
By this time, a breeze had come up so we headed down the slope a short way to a large rock cairn that doubled as a picnic bench. Here we sheltered from the wind and had a small bite to eat while Karl pointed out various landmarks and shared more stories of the mountain and its history.
Eventually, and with great reluctance, we had to start making our way back down, but ahead was the scree run and our thoughts turned to what we’d seen earlier from the opposite crater wall. Was it really as steep as it looked?
The Screeeee-am run
From the summit it’s a short 500m walk to the crater’s edge above the scree run, marked by a sign restricting access to Wahanga dome. This dome was once a Māori burial site and therefore considered tapu (sacred) but our attention was focussed on the 120m drop down to the crater floor.
How steep is the run? Well, my highly unscientific guesstimate would put it at about 45 degrees. What does that mean in real terms? It means that if this was a snow covered ski run and you happened to fall, you and gravity would be having some pretty strong words until you finally reached the bottom.
Fortunately, there was no snow, just a little morning frost and the softness of the loose sand and scoria meant that as long as we leant back and dug in our heels we could almost ‘ski’ down the slope and all too soon, we found ourselves in the eerie silence of the crater itself.
Aerial combat
From the base of the scree run we headed northeast along the crater floor, stopping briefly to look at a collection of rocks, brought to life by Karl’s explanation of how they would have been formed during the eruption.
Continuing along the gradually rising track we suddenly heard a bird call and turning back towards the multi-coloured cliffs of Ruawahia saw two kārearea or New Zealand falcons. This in itself was pretty amazing given that they’re a threatened species but a few moments later, an unsuspecting hawk arrived on the scene and we were treated to a display of aerial combat. The much smaller falcons swooped and dive bombed the interloper several times until eventually it got the hint and headed off into the distance. ‘Well that was special.’ said Karl. ‘Could this day get any better?’ we thought. As it turns out, it did.
We were approaching the final climb back up to the crater’s edge, our hearts heavy with the thought of having to leave this incredible place when, out of the corner of my eye, I spotted movement. Suddenly, almost out of thin air, one of the falcons we had watched earlier literally dropped out of the sky, landing just a few meters in front of us before taking off again with something in its talons. This all happened in a matter of seconds and we just stood there, glued to the spot in total amazement.
Even Karl, who had seen many things on the mountain over the years, seemed totally dumbstruck. Not for the first time that day he said, ‘you lucky lucky people’, shaking his head in disbelief. We like to think that in some small way, the events of that day will become part of Karl’s story of the mountain, shared with future visitors to Mount Tarawera as a tale of what they too could experience if they’re really really lucky.
Epilogue: A most unexpected turn of events (and the kindness of strangers)
We were heading back to Rotorua on Highway 5, once again cosied up in the front of the Land Cruiser, when suddenly, the windscreen wipers came to life, not in a gentle side-to-side fashion, but more of a maniacal thrashing that continued for a few seconds before ending with a loud and rather ominous grinding noise.
‘Well that was odd.’ said Karl. ‘Yes,’ said Debs, ‘but not as odd as the smoke that’s coming up between your legs.’ Unsurprisingly we stopped shortly thereafter and exited the vehicle in an orderly fashion. In other words, we grabbed our stuff and got the hell out of the car.
By the looks of things, the alternator had decided to make it’s last volt and figured that if it was going to go, it was going to take the rest of the vehicle’s electrics with it. In short, we were stranded. We moved a little further away from the still smoking Toyota while Karl radioed the ‘epic fail’ (his words not ours) back to base. In reply we got a reassuring ‘sit tight bro, we’re on our way’.
And so began the unexpected portion of our guided tour as Karl kept us occupied with more tales that only locals can tell. We also got to admire some of the local wildlife in the form of a herd of grazing cattle. One cow in particular grabbed Deb’s attention with it’s deep brown hide. I suspect this was because she was picturing it as a handbag and a new pair of boots.
Over the course of the next 45 minutes, we watched the traffic going by until an approaching car came smoking and sputtering to a halt on the opposite side of the road. ‘What are the chances of another car breaking down in this exact same spot?’ we thought. Next thing, the driver did a u-turn and pulled up besides us. ‘Need a hand mate?’ he asked. Turns out he’d driven past us earlier, finally managed to turn around several kilometres up the road and then come back to give us a hand. That’s the Kiwi spirit for you right there!
Kaitiaki Adventures
Despite our little ‘event’, we had an amazing day with Karl as our guide. We never felt rushed on the mountain and we really appreciated sharing our adventure with a local who could bring the place to life. Rotorua is an amazing destination, with so much to do and we encourage you to explore as much as you can when visiting. But if you’re short on time and have to choose only a few activities, doing the Mount Tarawera hike with Kaitiaki Adventures has got to be top of your list.
Note: This was not a sponsored trip, we paid for it ourselves and would do it again in a heartbeat.
When climbing Mt Tarawera with Kaitiaki, they will collect you and drop you off at the information centre (i-SITE) in the centre of Rotorua. Rotorua itself offers a good mix of adventure and relaxation in close proximity to the town centre. But if you don’t mind travelling the 80 km and are looking for an adventure that’s off the beaten path, we highly recommend walking the Tarawera Falls Track.
Looking for more ideas on things to do and places to see when visiting the Rotorua region? Have a look at our guide, Top things to do in Rotorua.
Walk the Tarawera Falls Track
Follow the disappearing river
Tarawera Falls Track
From Omanawa Falls in the north to Sutherland Falls in the south, New Zealand has some pretty spectacular waterfalls. Tarawera Falls may not be the tallest or widest or arguably even the most scenic. It is however unique, but to appreciate and understand what makes this waterfall so special you really need to discover what’s above the falls.
Prior to our visit, we’d seen photos of the falls, and while it was on our list of places to visit in the Rotorua area, it wasn’t that high on our list to be perfectly honest. That changed when our guide on a trip to nearby Mount Tarawera mentioned that while it’s a little off the beaten track, we should definitely visit Tarawera Falls and the disappearing river. Now that last bit is what got us really interested.
Getting there
In terms of being off the beaten track, there are a few things you’re going to want to know before visiting. While only about 25 km from Rotorua as the crow flies, the actual drive on Highway 30 heads east towards Kawerau and then west again into the Tarawera Forest which makes the drive closer to 80 km. The last 20 km of the route is on gravel logging roads which require a permit to drive. Fortunately the permits are cheap, just $5 per car when we visited, and you can get one from the Kawerau Information Centre (Plunket Street, Kawerau 3127) or online. Before visiting, we suggest you contact the information centre to make sure that the forest is in fact open to the public as it’s sometimes closed for logging activities.
Something else worth mentioning, based on our experience on other New Zealand logging roads we’ve driven, is that the condition of the roads can vary significantly based on the time of year and whether or not the forest is being logged at the time. It goes without saying that you really don’t want to treat this as some rally stage in your rental Toyota Corolla or Juicy Campervan because an encounter between you and a logging truck will not end well. But don’t let any of this put you off. On the day we visited, a Sunday in winter, we pretty much had the roads to ourselves and they were in good condition. That said, we were in our trusty VW truck so prepared for just about anything.
Tarawera Outlet Track to Tarawera Falls
From the carpark to the falls themselves is a short 15 – 20 minute walk along a well formed path that follows the crystal clear Tarawera River. If you’re short on time, you can simply walk to the falls and back and then head on to your next destination. But if you’re going to go to the effort of driving all the way out there, you really should consider making a proper outing of it in which case you should definitely walk the Tarawera Outlet to Tarawera Falls Track. This is a 5 km track which follows the Tarawera River from the falls to the DOC (Department of Conservation) campsite at the outlet on Lake Tarawera.
This track will take you anything from 1.5 to 2 hours, or longer if you stop to swim along the way. Bear in mind that this is one way so unless you’ve arranged a pickup at the other end, allow for the same time back. On the day we walked, we started from the falls and walked upstream but in hindsight, we should have started at the outlet because the river tells a far better story that way as you’ll see.
Getting to the Tarawera Outlet Campsite is only a few kilometres further than driving to the falls directly. You’ll still take the same road from Kawerau but approximately 15 km from the Kawerau information centre you’ll take a signposted turning to the left and from there it’s another 12 km.
Tarawera’s Lazy Start
The Tarawera River makes its lazy start at the eastern end of Lake Tarawera, a popular summer holiday destination for boating and fishing. The campsite does have toilets and running water however, since this water comes from the river directly, as pure and clean as it looks, its still advisable to boil before drinking, or simply bring your own.
From the outlet campsite, there’s a wooden bridge over the river and in the clear shallow water below, you may be lucky and spot some trout. In the distance to the south is Wahanga Dome, one of the three main domes of Mount Tarawera.
The track follows the northern bank of the river as it slowly meanders its way downstream through the forest. About 2 km from the bridge, the track emerges from the forest for a short section and if you’re lucky, as we were, you may get to see a few wallabies sunning themselves. Yes, wallabies in New Zealand.
Heading further downstream, the forest becomes thicker and the path more interesting. On the day we were there, we came across this rather large boulder, a stark reminder that just above us were cliffs doing what they do naturally over time, erode. Of course statistically, the chances of being hit by a boulder like this are pretty minimal but this is a thought best left unthought.
Tarawera River Swimming Hole
About an hour from the outlet is a particular highlight of the walk in the form of a clear, inviting swimming hole, complete with rope swing. Inviting as it looked, given that it was winter and we we weren’t feeling that brave/stupid, we didn’t get to swim but we will definitely go back in summer.
Don’t however be tempted to go exploring the river itself much beyond this pool as things become a lot less inviting the further you go.
The Disappearing River
After the upper Tarawera Falls (with the deadly swimming pool), the river does something interesting, it splits, and while a part of it continues to flow downstream as a normal river should, most of it simply disappears into a hole in the ground as you can see below. You may well be tempted to go and have a closer look at that hole, but given the slippery state of the rocks, that wouldn’t necessarily be one of your best ideas since there’d be no coming back from falling in there.
A little further downstream, the track splits and you can head off to the right or continue on the main track. We suggest taking this short detour to the right as it follows the section of the river that’s still above ground as it rushes through a number of channels before also disappearing underground. Shortly after that, if you have a head for heights, look for a path to your right which will take you to a clifftop lookout with views of the Tarawera River valley.
From the lookout, this side track heads back towards the main track which will take you to the foot of the falls. Along the way, listen for the sound of the underground river. At one point you can hear it rushing below your feet towards its inevitable date with gravity, but you won’t see a thing.
Tarawera Falls – The Main Event
Tarawera Falls is in fact two waterfalls in one and what you actually see on the day depends on how much rain there’s been previously, and the level of the lake. There’s a typical ‘over the edge’ type waterfall that drops a respectable 65m but unfortunately wasn’t flowing on the day we visited. However, it’s the re-emergence of the underground river that’s the real spectacle as it erupts out of the cliff face like a dam wall about to break.
To be honest, our photos don’t do this waterfall justice and you really have to be there to get the full experience. While the lower section of the falls is only around 35m high, it’s still pretty spectacular. If you look closely at the photo below you’ll see the outline of a person sitting on a rock at the base of the falls which should give you a sense of scale.
We thoroughly enjoyed our time at Tarawera Falls which, together with the Tarawera Outlet Track, makes for a great day out. We will definitely be back there in summer to have a swim and a picnic at the swimming hole. Unsurprisingly, this is now high on our list of top things to do when visiting the Rotorua area so when planning your Rotorua itinerary you should definitely make time see Tarawera Falls and its disappearing river.
Walk the Matiatia Headland Track
Coastal views and mansions
Matiatia Headland Track
A quick 35 to 45 minute ferry ride from one of Auckland’s ferry terminals will get you to Waiheke, the city’s second largest island. Described by Lonely Planet as “a utopia of secret coves, beautiful beaches, rolling vineyards, luxury lodges and bohemian sensibilities” it’s no surprise that we regularly make the trip out there to get a little slice of island life, and if you enjoy the outdoors, there’s much to explore.
The Matiatia Headland Walk is a beautiful showcase for Waiheke’s picturesque coastline. While a little steep in places with a few sections close to cliff edges, this really is an easy walk although not suitable for prams or wheelchairs. Conveniently, it also starts and ends at the Matiatia ferry building meaning that transport to or from the route’s start is not a problem. The walk will take anything from 2 to 3 hours to complete depending on which route you opt for.
From the ferry building, most visitors will head north along the shoreline towards the old pā site (fortified Māori settlement) on Mokemoke headland. If you’re something of a history buff you can read more about this particular site here.
It’s worth mentioning that there is a high tide pinch point just near the ferry building as you’ll see below. If you’re not up for a bit of a rock scrambling you’ll need to take a 30 to 40 minute detour which is clearly shown on the Te Ara Hura walk map. You’ll want to pick up one of those from the ferry building information stand before you head out.
Continuing north from the pā, you’ll get to enjoy beautiful views across the channel towards Motuihe & Motutapu Islands with Auckland City skyline way in the distance, not to mention of course the iconic outline of Rangitoto Island.
And it’s not just the views across the water that will captivate you as you walk along. You will pass a number of spectacular properties and to say they are spectacular is something of an understatement. The fact that at least one of them has its own helicopter landing pad most probably gives you a good idea of what to expect. ?
Rounding the northern most tip of the headland you’ll head east towards Cable Bay. You’ll know you’re there when you see the ‘railway dog’. It will be clear what we mean when you get there. ?
From here you’ll have an option to either head right and up towards Delamore Drive or continue along the coast and over the hill towards Owhanake Bay where you’ll have another choice. If you’re short on time you can head up and again join Delamore Drive or continue along the bay eventually joining Korora Road. This is a good option if you’re feeling energetic as this route can take you all the way in to Oneroa, a quaint seaside village with no shortage of options for a leisurely bite to eat before you return to your ferry or instead, catch a bus or taxi to one of the island’s many beautiful attractions.
As you can see from our photos, it was a bit of grey day when we visited. Despite that we thoroughly enjoyed our stroll around the headland. But what really stood out for us was the interesting coastline below with its crystal clear waters and interesting little nooks, crannies and sea caves, all accessible only if you had a boat or say… a paddleboard. That of course got us thinking about our next visit to Waiheke which will almost certainly include a paddle around this wonderful little stretch of coastline.
Visit Hot Water Beach
Nature’s spa resort
Hot Water Beach
Situated on the east coast of the Coromandel Peninsula, Hot Water Beach, although pretty, looks fairly ordinary by New Zealand standards. It does however have a little party trick up its sleeve which, as you’ve no doubt already guessed, involves hot water. Hope you brought your swimming costume.
Here’s the thing though, visit Hot Water Beach at the wrong time and you’ll see absolutely nothing. That’s because the geothermal springs that give this beach its name are actually covered for much of the day and it’s only at low tide, and a few hours either side of low tide, that you get to enjoy this unique experience. However, if you have visions of having this place entirely to yourself then you better be an early riser or, better yet, enjoying soaking under the stars because this place gets busy.
If you don’t mind the hustle and bustle and don’t have a problem sharing with people of all shapes, sizes and nationalities then you’ll enjoy the real melting pot that is Hot Water Beach, ha ha… hot water, pot… get it? ?
Of course, if you are lucky enough to be travelling through Coromandel out of season and you time it just right, you may find it’s just you and a few other souls on the beach. Even late at night you’re likely to make some new hot tub friends as holidaymakers staying at the nearby Hot Water Beach Top 10 Holiday Park usually head over to the beach at night when the tide is right.
Something else worth mentioning is that Hot Water is a popular surf spot although this beach break does tend to closeout when the swell picks up and the rips can be quite strong. There are also rocks close to shore that are submerged once the tide starts to push in so you don’t want to go diving in headfirst. Better to just be safe and wallow in your pool until the returning tide undoes all of your hard work.
X Marks the Spot
Unfortunately there is no X, so figuring out where to dig can be a little tricky if you happen to be the first there after the high tide has washed the previous pools away. Here’s how you can look like you know what you’re doing. From the parking near the cafe, cross over the small stream and walk north (left) along the beach until you get to the first rock outcrop on your left. From there, walk another 30m until you’re in line with rocks sticking out of the water to your right and a largish rock on your left. Start digging and enjoy.
Finally, for those of you interested in geothermally stuff, there are in fact two springs about 20m apart. They are fed from groundwater reservoirs heated by cooling magma about 2km below the surface. The 170 °C (338 °F) magma heats the water which rises through fractures in the crust until it eventually heats your toes and other unsuspecting body parts at around 60 to 64 °C (140+ °F). So for obvious reasons, a spade is highly recommended. For those of you (which is most of us) who don’t happen to carry around a spade, you can hire one from the beachfront cafe. There are also toilets and showers (cold only) available.
Visit Anawhata Beach
Like Piha but with less crowds
Anawhata Beach
Less than an hour’s drive west of central Auckland is the Waitakere Ranges Regional Park, a 16,000 hectare playground for adventure seekers, filled with lush subtropical forest, rivers, dams, waterfalls and stunning beaches, all connected by a network of over 250 kilometres of walking tracks.
Piha is undoubtedly the poster child of Auckland’s west coast beaches and for good reason. For many, it’s their first experience of a black sand beach, and as the winding road heading down to the beach reaches that first lookout corner, you can’t help but be in awe of the view that greets you, with iconic Lion Rock taking center stage. But there’s just one problem with all of this beauty… everyone one wants a piece of it. Anawhata on the other hand, has all of the beauty of Piha but without the crowds. It even has it’s own mini-me version of Lion Rock.
Believe it or not, but a few minutes before the photo above was taken, the rain had been bucketing down. We’d driven the 10km from the turnoff on Piha Road along the narrow gravel road wondering if the weather was going to clear and by the time we reached the small parking area at the start of the track things weren’t looking promising. But we’d come prepared and put on our rain gear and almost immediately, the clouds parted and the sun began to shine. That’s New Zealand weather for you.
The walk down to the beach is less than 30 minutes at a good pace, and starts out on the well-formed gravel road that heads down to Keddle House (more on that later). As the road turns sharply to the left, look out for the small path that heads off to the right. This will take you up to a lookout with a bench where you can sit and take in the view.
After taking a few photos at the bench lookout, we headed back to the road and carried on towards the beach until we reached a sign pointing off to the right. From here the track leaves the gravel road and winds its way fairly steeply down through the forest until you reach the sand. As you can see from the photos below, ours were the only footprints on the beach that day.
It just so happened that we arrived as the tide was going out which turned out to be a good thing as it meant we were able to head across to Parera Point, the rocky outcrop that divides the beach. It’s well worth exploring the interesting channels, pools and rock formations including this small rock arch.
Of course, no visit to a rock arch would be complete without the obligatory ‘standing in the arch’ shot.
We were so absorbed in exploring that we weren’t paying too much attention to the weather until we noticed that the blue sky had darkened and a few kilometres out to sea, a wall of grey was heading our way. Time to make a hasty retreat we figured. Debs was of course fully prepared in her rain gear, head to toe. I on the other hand, in typical man fashion, figured we could outrun the rain and chose not to put on my rain pants. Oh how wrong was I. We almost made it all the way back to the car unscathed but halfway up the gravel track we were treated to some spectacular horizontal rain. Lesson learned, for me at least.
Despite the wind and rain, we had a great time on Anawhata Beach and will definitely visit again in future. If you’re in Auckland and looking to get away from the hustle and bustle of the city for a while then Anawhata Beach is the perfect place for some quiet solitude.
Wondering who’s lucky enough to live in the house on the hill in such a remote and beautiful place? Well potentially, that someone could be you, at least for a few days, because this bach (pronounced ‘batch’, a kiwi word for a small holiday house) is actually available for rent. Keddle House is a 1930s bungalow that sleeps 6 and makes a perfect base if you’re planning on exploring more of this amazing coastline. You can find out more by visiting the Auckland Council website.