Visit Spirits Bay
Far, far north
Spirits Bay
Many visitors to New Zealand mistakenly believe that Cape Reinga is the northernmost point of New Zealand. Technically speaking, the Hikurua / de Surville Cliffs 30 km to the east of Cape Reinga are further north but few visitors get there. In reality, Kapowairua, or Spirits Bay, is as far north as most of us can travel.
On our most recent Northland road trip, we had every intention of visiting de Surville Cliffs. Doing some research beforehand, we saw that the road to de Surville was off Spirits Bay Road so we headed in that direction in high hopes. Unfortunately our plans were ruined by a locked gate.
As we found out later after speaking to the manager at the Spirits Bay campsite, everything to the east of Spirits Bay (the real far north as he described it) is effectively private land so to access, you either need to have a key, or know someone with a key. We were obviously quite disappointed but as it turned out, Spirits Bay itself was well worth the trip. Here’s a very short video clip from our visit.
Back in 2011, the New Zealand Herald newspaper ran a competition for kiwis to nominate their favourite camping spots. The Spirits Bay DOC campsite was the fourth most popular spot and now having visited, we can see why.
If you’re in Auckland having just arrived in the country, you’ll soon realise that this is called the far north for a reason. As you’ll see below, Spirits Bay is far away from anywhere but then again, that is part of the appeal.
Here are approximate travel times and distances to Spirits Bay from some of the main centres to help you plan your visit.
- Auckland to Spirits Bay: 420 km / 260 miles – 6 hours
- Whangarei to Spirits Bay: 260 km / 162 miles – 4 hours
- Paihia (Bay of Islands) to Spirits Bay (via SH1): 210 km / 130 miles – 3 hours 15 minutes
- Ahipara to Spirits Bay: 120 km / 75 miles – 2 hours
- Kaitaia to Spirits Bay: 110 km / 68 miles – 1 hour 45 minutes
- Pukenui to Spirits Bay: 65 km / 40 miles – 1 hour 10 minutes
Travel times can vary significantly, particularly in popular areas during peak visitor months (December – February). For current travel times and updates on delays, roadworks and road closures, use the NZ Transport Agency journey planner before travelling. It’s always a good idea to allow extra time for photo stops and, when travelling longer distances, rest stops.
Driving up on Highway 1, there is a petrol station and shop/cafe at Waitiki, approximately 80 km north of Awanui. This is the last petrol station before Cape Reinga and also a good place to stock up on refreshments before you get to Spirits Bay. The turnoff to the bay is immediately after Waitiki and it’s worth mentioning that it’s a gravel road from this point for the next 16 km. You don’t need a 4×4 to drive this road and we didn’t think the condition was too bad but then we were in our VW UTE/truck.
Spirits Bay camping
The Spirits Bay campsite may be popular but kiwis don’t come here for luxury. That means you get the basics, or what the Department of Conservation calls a ‘scenic’ campsite with flushing toilets, cold water showers and taps for water – that’s it. There are 45 non-powered sites suitable for caravans, motorhomes and tents and as the camping ground is quite large, you don’t have to be on top of each other.
When we last visited just after Christmas it was quite busy but compared to nearby Tapotupotu Bay, still relatively uncrowded. Bear in mind however that you can’t book in advance and it’s first come first served so there’s no guarantee of getting a spot, particularly in peak season, December to February. Fees as at December 2018 are:
- Adult (18+ years): $13 per night
- Child (5 – 17 years): $6.50 per night
- Infant (0 – 4 years): free
The campsite is set slightly back from the beach behind dunes and it’s only a few minutes walk to the beach. While the dunes will give some shelter, we imagine that this campsite would take a bit of a pounding when the wind is blowing from the north west. Worth considering when you set up your site.
Things to do at Spirits Bay
As you would expect from such a beautiful location, there’s lots to do in Spirits Bay from just lounging around on the beach to surfing and swimming although, as with many New Zealand beaches, be mindful of strong rip currents.
We also noticed tyre tracks on the beach and a boat trailer parked up above the high water mark so this is obviously a popular spot for launching boats and we imagine there’s some good fishing off the coast. There’s also a small island, Pananehe Island, at the mouth of Kapowairua Stream. The island is easily accessible around low tide and there’s a rock shelf right around it which no doubt makes for some good land-based fishing.
Then of course there’s the white sand beach itself, Te Horo Beach, all 7 and a bit kilometres of it. So if taking long strolls along deserted beaches is your thing, you won’t be disappointed. In fact Kapowairua is the start of the 48 km / 30 mile Te Paki Coastal Track, a multi-day hike that follows the coast all the way past Cape Reinga to the giant Te Paki dunes.
Spirits Bay map
If you haven’t already, clicking on the blue map at the top of the page will take you to Google Maps where you can do the usual Google Map things. You might also find the Spirits Bay topographical map below of some use, particularly if you’re planning on hiking some or all of the Te Paki Coastal Track towards Pandora campsite.
Spirits Bay weather and tides
The nearest New Zealand MetService forecast for this far north region is for Kaitai which is some distance away from Cape Reinga. To check more detailed local weather conditions and forecasts including wind, rain, temperature and cloud cover we use, and highly recommend, Windy.com.
If you’re planning on doing some fishing or on launching a boat, you’ll want to check the tides. The nearest tide chart location for Spirits Bay is Cape Maria van Diemen, just west of Cape Reinga.
Māori cultural significance
You may be wondering why this area is referred to as Spirits Bay or Kapowairua in Māori. The bay itself is officially called Piwhane but it’s the far eastern end of the bay that’s called Kapowairua which means “to grasp or catch the spirit”.
Considered to be a sacred place in Māori culture, local legend has it that spirits of the dead gather at an old pōhutukawa tree on the headland above the bay before travelling to the afterlife to meet their ancestors. We didn’t see any spirits but then it was day time. Who knows what goes on there at night ;-).
Go sandboarding at Te Paki Dunes
Sand everywhere at
Te Paki Dunes
If you’ve grown up near the coast or spent summer holidays at the sea as a child, there’s a good chance you spent some time rolling down sand dunes – we certainly did. At some point, we grew out of the habit and started behaving like ‘proper’ adults. That was until we visited the giant Te Paki sand dunes near Cape Reinga.
Said to be some of the largest sand dunes in the Southern Hemisphere, at around 100 metres, almost 330 feet, these dunes are high, and don’t let the photo above fool you, they are steep. It’s a bit of a climb to the top but the view is worth it and the short trip back down is exhilarating. Here’s a short video clip to give you an idea of what you can expect.
As you can see we had a really fun time sliding down Te Paki sand dunes. I think we went down about three times. After that, the thought of climbing back up again lost its appeal so we called it a day. We really can’t recommend this activity enough and if you’re going to go to the effort of travelling all this way north, why not give it a go.
Even if sandboarding is a little too adventurous for you, we can still recommend visiting Te Paki and simply climbing to the top of the dunes. Chances are that in your travels, you won’t get too many other opportunities to climb 100 metre high sand dunes.
Located close to the very top of New Zealand’s North Island, the Te Paki sand dunes and nearby Cape Reinga are pretty much as far north as you can get from Auckland. That means unless you’re already based somewhere in the upper half of the Northland region, a visit to Te Paki is not exactly a day trip.
Here are approximate travel times and distances to Te Paki from some of the main centres to help you plan your visit.
- Auckland to Te Paki: 410 km / 255 miles – 5 hours 30 minutes
- Whangarei to Te Paki: 350 km / 217 miles – 3 hours 30 minutes
- Paihia (Bay of Islands) to Te Paki (via SH1): 200 km / 124 miles – 3 hours
- Ahipara to Te Paki: 110 km / 68 miles – 1 hour 40 minutes
- Kaitaia to Te Paki: 100 km / 62 miles – 1 hour 30 minutes
- Pukenui to Te Paki: 60 km / 37 miles – 50 minutes
Travel times can vary significantly, particularly in popular areas during peak visitor months (December – February). For current travel times and updates on delays, roadworks and road closures, use the NZ Transport Agency journey planner before travelling. It’s always a good idea to allow extra time for photo stops and, when travelling longer distances, rest stops.
Te Paki tours
If you’ve just arrived in Auckland and don’t relish the thought of driving yourself all the way up north just to go sandboarding at Cape Reinga, one option is to consider a coach tour from Gray Line coach tours. They offer a number of activity based tour options including a 3 day Best of the Northland tour which includes a stop at the giant Te Paki dunes.
Alternatively, if you’ve already made your own way up to Paihia and the Bay of Islands, you could consider one of Fullers GreatSights popular adventure day trips which include driving on 90 Mile Beach (tide dependent), and Cape Reinga sandboarding.
- Earlier in the morning and later in the afternoon are the best times to visit as it’s not as busy and not as hot during summer (December – February). Outside of summer, it’s generally a lot less busy.
- Speaking of hot, the sand can get hot, really hot, but walking up the dune in shoes can be a bit of a pain. Plus shoes get in the way when sliding down, especially when using your feet as brakes. One option is to wear just socks which are easy to take off and shove in a pocket if you find you don’t need them. Plus there’s the fact that you need to cross the small Te Paki Stream to get to the dunes – a lot easier barefoot.
- Wear sunglasses, partly for the glare or just to try and keep the sand out of your eyes.
- Avoid wearing loose jewellery or anything valuable that could come off easily if you wipe out. Chances are you won’t find it again in the sand. Note to self: take metal detector on next trip to Te Paki 😉
- When sliding down the dune, keep your arms tucked in and lift yourself up on your elbows. The ride can be a bit bumpy sometimes, especially near the bottom, and this will protect your ribs a little.
- Driving up on Highway 1, there is a petrol station and shop/cafe at Waitiki, approximately 80 km north of Awanui. This is the last petrol station before Cape Reinga and also a good place to stock up on refreshments before you get to the dunes. The turnoff to the dunes along Te Paki Stream Road is another 5 km north of Waitiki.
- There is a gravel parking area and parking is free (as at December 2019).
- There are toilet/changing facilities near the parking.
Te Paki sand board hire
As you drive along the road towards Te Paki dunes, you’ll see signs advertising boards for hire. While you can hire boards along the way, you can in fact hire them at the dunes as well. That’s probably a bit more convenient as you can simply drop them off there once you’re done.
We hired on site when we last visited and it cost $15 per board for as long as you like. Just bear in mind that you will need to leave your drivers license or passport as security. Board hire at the dunes is available from around 9.30am to 6.00pm in summer and 10.30am to 4.00pm in winter depending on how busy it is.
Te Paki sand dunes map
If you haven’t already, clicking on the blue map at the top of the page will take you to Google Maps where you can do the usual Google Map things. You might also find the Te Paki dunes topographical map below of some use, particularly if you’re planning on exploring the dunes a little further. In fact you can walk all the way to the coast for views of 90 Mile Beach and the Tasman Sea.
Te Paki weather
It was a little overcast on the day we visited which was most probably a good thing as it meant it wasn’t unbearably hot. We imagine that sandboarding here would be fun no matter what the weather, apart from torrential rain. That said, if there’s a strong wind blowing, as it often does here at the top of the north, it probably won’t be too much fun either.
The nearest New Zealand MetService forecast is for Kaitai which is some distance away from Cape Reinga. To check more detailed local weather conditions and forecasts including wind, rain, temperature and cloud cover we use, and highly recommend, Windy.com.
Visit Cathedral Cove and Hahei Beach
Coromandel must-do’s
Cathedral Cove & Hahei Beach
Ask an Aucklander where their favourite summertime beach is and chances are it will be somewhere on the Coromandel Peninsula. For us, the beginning of summer each year is marked by a trip to Hahei Beach and an early morning paddle to Cathedral Cove. Here’s why we just can’t get enough of this place.
The truth is that this short video clip shows only a fraction of what this beautiful stretch of coastline has to offer. Unsurprisingly, both kiwis and international visitors flock here in summer to walk, kayak, snorkel and swim or just soak up some sun on Hehei’s white sand beach. So if you’re planning a trip to New Zealand this time of year and want to get a taste of true kiwi summer, this is one place you have to visit.
Hopefully by this point we’ve convinced you to visit this amazing part of the Coromandel Peninsula, assuming you even needed convincing in the first place. So how exactly can you get to Cathedral Cove from Auckland and other nearby towns? The small seaside settlement of Hahei is the closest centre, and from here it’s a 45 minute walk north along the coast to the cove itself.
Click on the blue map near the top of the page to open Google Maps. That will show you exactly where Hahei Beach and Cathedral Cove is in New Zealand, and you can get directions and do all the usual Google Map things. You might also find the following table of approximate travel times and distances useful:
- Auckland to Hahei/Cathedral Cove (via Tairua): 176 km / 110 miles – 2 hours 30 minutes
- Auckland to Hahei/Cathedral Cove (via Coromandel Town): 245 km / 152 miles – 3 hours 45 minutes
- Hamilton to Hahei/Cathedral Cove: 161 km / 100 miles – 2 hours 20 minutes
- Rotorua to Hahei/Cathedral Cove (via Waihi): 206 km / 128 miles – 3 hours
- Tauranga to Hahei/Cathedral Cove: 152 km / 94 miles – 2 hours 20 minutes
- Whitianga to Hahei/Cathedral Cove: 36 km / 22 miles – 35 minutes
Travel times can vary significantly, particularly in popular areas during peak visitor months (December – February). For current travel times and updates on delays, roadworks and road closures, use the NZ Transport Agency journey planner before travelling.
You’ll notice that we’ve included two options when driving from Auckland to Cathedral Cove, the second option being a lot longer. This scenic route follows the west coast of the Coromandel Peninsula and is worth doing if you’re in no hurry. However, the road is very windy and narrow in places so not a good option if you’re tired after a longhaul flight.
Just north of Hahei is the seaside town of Whitianga, a good base from which to explore the more northern reaches of the Coromandel. While Cathedral Cove is only a 35 minute drive from Whitianga, if you prefer not to drive into Hahei during the busy peak season, consider catching a ferry across to Ferry Landing and from there a shuttle to Cathedral Cove.
A bit of history
The dramatic white cliffs in this area of the Coromandel Peninsula were formed from pumice and ash that erupted about 8 million years ago. Being relatively soft and bearing the brunt of waves and weather from the Pacific Ocean, the coastal cliffs have eroded over thousands of years to form the headlands that separate the many bays along the coast.
So how was Cathedral Cove formed? If you paddle along the coast from Hahei Beach towards Cathedral Cove you will notice many small caves in the cliff faces. At some point, the iconic archway we see today would have been a cave, or more likely two caves on either side of the headland that joined over time.
Bear in mind that this erosion is still happening now and you’ll see a number of warnings in the area about falling rocks. In fact, the north-western end of the beach at Stingray Bay is now closed due to the danger of falling rocks.
Along with Mercury Bay to the north, this stretch of coastline has long been spiritually important to the local Māori people, the Ngāti Hei, whose ancestor, Hei, first visited and claimed the area in the 13th century. In fact the name of the settlement of Hahei is derived from the Māori name for Mercury Bay, Te-Whanganui-A-Hei, or “The Great Bay of Hei”.
In the early 19th century, Hahei was a family farm which over the years proved to be a popular camping spot and continues to be a popular holiday destination for both New Zealanders and tourists alike. Hahei now has several cafes, a bar, a petrol station and a general store with pretty much everything you’ll need for your summer beach holiday.
The Chronicles of Narnia: Prince Caspian
So here’s a fun fact. If you’ve seen the movie The Chronicles of Narnia: Prince Caspian, you would actually already have seen Cathedral Cove. Prince Caspian was the second movie in the Chronicles of Narnia series based on the fantasy novels by C.S. Lewis, and while most of the movie was shot in Europe, one particular scene where the Pevensies return to the ruins of Cair Paravel was shot at Cathedral Cove. Here’s a short clip.
When is the best time to visit Cathedral Cove?
Being such a popular spot you’re most probably wondering – is Cathedral Cove busy? The answer is – it depends. Summer in New Zealand is officially from December to February and this is obviously the peak season for both tourists and locals.
That said, we last visited around the 8th of December and did our usual early morning paddle to Cathedral Cove from Hahei Beach. Apart from two other people, we had the place to ourselves. Bear in mind though that schools break up around the middle of December for 6 weeks so that’s when things really start to get busy. You can check school holiday dates here.
For us personally, we avoid Hahei over this period and won’t go back until early Autumn in March. In fact, we think Autumn is the best time to visit Cathedral Cove. It’s still warm, the weather is settled and it’s far less busy. Of course, if you’re not too interested in swimming or snorkeling, and just want to experience the place, Winter and Spring are also excellent times to visit. It might just be you and a handful of dedicated photographers trying to get that must-have shot of the arch.
Hahei Beach & Cathedral Cove car parks
It should come as no surprise that parking during peak season has been a bit of a challenge in the past. There are a number of prime parking spots close to the beach at the end of Hahei Beach Road, but unless you get there really early, you can forget about finding a spot.
Visitors used to park along Beach Road but that tended to cause chaos and made it difficult to walk from the beach to the shops. Fortunately, the good people of Hahei have created a dedicated visitor car park, just on your right as you enter Hahei. As at time of writing (December 2018) parking is free and from here it’s a 20 minute walk to the beach and the lower start of the Cathedral Cove Walk. More on that later.
During the summer months, there is a Cathedral Cove Park and Ride shuttle service which costs $5 return per person, $3 for a child and $10 for a family (2 adults 2 children).
The upper start of the Cathedral Cove Walk is at the end of Grange Road and there are a limited number of paid parkings there. However, parking is prohibited here from the 1 October to the 30 April although you can drop people off. This is also the pick up and drop off zone for the Coromandel Cove Shuttle.
When we last drove up to the drop off we noticed that enterprising locals on Grange Road were letting visitors park on their properties – for a small fee of course. We can’t guarantee that this will always be the case but if you do decide to drive up to the top car park, keep an eye out for the handmade signboards along the road.
Weather
We all go to the beach for fun and sun right? If you’re visiting New Zealand on a fixed itinerary you may not have your pick of the best weather. But if you have some flexibility and want to check the local conditions before visiting, the nearest New Zealand MetService forecast location for Hahei and Cathedral Cove is Whitianga.
While MetService does provide rain forecast maps, these cover the entire country. To check more detailed local weather conditions and forecasts including wind, rain, temperature and cloud cover we use, and highly recommend, Windy.com.
Tides
Unlike nearby Hot Water Beach which you need to visit around low tide, Hahei beach and Cathedral Cove can be enjoyed at any time. That said, at high tide the sea does come up as far as the northern side of the Cathedral Cove arch. Depending on the tide and the swell, you might have to time your dash through the arch to the other side to stay dry. To check the latest Cathedral Cove low tide times, have a look at the New Zealand MetService tide table for Whitianga.
Ways to Explore Cathedral Cove
Cathedral Cove and the famous rock archway can only be reached on foot or from the sea. While we think everyone should do the walk, our preference, as you may have seen from the video, is to paddle from Hahei Beach. That does of course depend on the conditions, particularly the wind. You will find that early mornings are the best with winds usually picking up later in the day.
Cathedral Cove Walk
Most visitors to the area will walk to Cathedral Cove from the upper car park / drop off point at the top of Grange Road (turn left just after the general store on Hahei Beach Road). The track is well maintained and we would stay this is a fairly easy walk although there are some steep stairs as you head down to the beach towards Mares Leg Cove.
The walk will take around 45 minutes one way, assuming you go direct to Cathedral Cove. There are however a number of side tracks including a loop walk to a viewing platform, and tracks going down to Gemstone Bay and Stringray Bay.
We highly recommend these little detours, particularly to Stingray Bay where we’ve found in the mornings that rays like to congregate in the shallow waters close to shore.
There is also a track which starts near the end of Hahei Beach and climbs up the headland to join the main track. Although this will add another 20 minutes to your walk, we think it’s actually the better route as it will give you some stunning views back towards Hahei Beach. The map further below shows the main track and the bays you can explore.
Cathedral Cove Walk map
Cathedral Cove water taxi
From around September to April there is a water taxi that will take you from Hahei Beach to Cathedral Cove. Just look for the big yellow and black flags on the beach. As the boat launches from the beach you will get your feet wet but that’s all part of the experience.
Weather dependent, the taxi runs every 30 minutes with payment made onboard via card and cash. You can check the latest prices and confirm operation status and departure times here.
Snorkeling and diving
The coast off Cathedral Cove is actually a protected marine reserve, Te Whanganui-A-Hei, which covers 9 square kilometres and is New Zealand’s sixth marine reserve. This area was selected due to its varied marine habitats both along the coast and around the outlying island.
We’ve snorkeled along the coast from the northern end of Hahei Beach to Cathedral Cove and back and Gemstone Bay is a particular highlight. Recognised by the Department of Conservation as a Coastal Gem, the Gemstone Bay Snorkel Trail is an opportunity to explore different habitats. There are a number of buoys floating in the bay with information on them explaining what you see. There are usually big snapper around and if you dive to the bottom and disturb the sand, they often come up close to see what you’re doing.
We have our own snorkeling gear but if you don’t have any you can hire some from the dive shop in Hahei.
Cathedral Cove day trips from Auckland
Want to visit Cathedral Cove but stuck in Auckland without transport? Don’t worry, there are a number of Auckland based tour operators who offer day trips. Check out:
Exploring the coast near Hahei Beach
While most visitors to Hahei head to the northern coves, there’s a lot more to this area than meets the eye. If like us you prefer to explore off the beaten path then you need to head south around/through Hereheretaura Point, the headland at the southern end of Hahei Beach.
What awaits is some of the most spectacularly rugged coastline along with a few hidden and not so hidden gems including The Blowhole (if you haven’t already, watch our video) and Orua sea cave, the second largest sea cave in New Zealand. Personally, we actually think this stretch of coast is better than Cathedral Cove. After seeing it for yourself, you might just agree.
For the best adventure we would suggest doing a guided tour with Cathedral Cove kayak tours in Hahei. Alternatively, if you’re short on time or don’t want to paddle, the Hahei Explorer boat tour is a good option.
Hahei Beach & Cathedral Cove accommodation
When visiting the Hahei area we always camp. In the past we’ve stayed at the Hot Water Beach Top 10 Holiday Park which is a great option, particularly if you want to stroll down to the beach at night. However, if we’re planning on doing an early morning paddle from Hahei, we prefer to stay at Hahei Beach Resort as it’s literally one dune away from the beach.
Of course Hahei Beach camping isn’t the only option. There are a number of Bed & Breakfasts and lodges to choose from and you can explore some options here.
We’ve mentioned Hot Water Beach on several occasions and for good reason. It’s a short drive, just 10 minutes to get to Hot Water Beach from Hahei Beach, and a unique experience you won’t want to miss.
As we’ve also mentioned, the town of Whitianga is just north of Hahei. If you continue north from Whitianga along State Highway 25 there are a number of other great beaches to explore including Optio, Otama and the popular New Chums Beach near Whangapoua.
Looking for more ideas on things to do and places to see when visiting the Coromandel region? Have a look at our guide, Top things to do in the Coromandel.
Walk the Kai Iwi Lakes Coastal Track
Fancy a shower?
Kai Iwi Lakes Coastal Track
If we’re honest, this track isn’t exactly a must-do, particularly if you’re visiting Northland on a tight schedule. However, if you’re visiting nearby Kai Iwi Lakes (and you really, really should) then you might want to consider this short, easy walk. Your efforts will be rewarded with a little surprise.
Like most who camp at Kai Iwi Lakes, we were there to enjoy the crystal clear water. We stayed overnight at Pine Beach campground and in the morning were treated to some of the glassiest mirror smooth water we’ve ever seen. Naturally we had to explore the lake on our stand up paddleboards.
As is often the case, the wind started to pickup mid-morning so we figured it was the perfect time to go for a walk. We’d read about the coastal track which heads across farmland from the lakes towards Ripiro Beach and were intrigued. Was this walk any good?
The best way to get to the start of this track is to follow the signs towards Kai Iwi Lakes. Kai Iwi Lakes is just under 3 hours drive north of Auckland and only 35 minutes north of Dargaville. Heading north from Dargaville along Highway 12, after 24 km, look for signs marked Omamari and Kai Iwi Lakes. Turn left into Omamari Road and then, after 8 km, follow the road right into Kai Iwi Lakes Road.
As you approach Taharoa Domain you’ll see a large blue sign and a turn-off to the right. This road takes you to Pine Beach Campground which is the main camping area in the domain. To get to the start of the coastal track, instead of turning right to Pine Beach, continue straight until you see signs for Promenade Point Campground. It’s best to park here in the area designated for day visitors.
From the parking, head back up towards the toilet block next to the main road. From here you’ll need to walk another 700m along the road to the start of the track which is clearly signposted on the left hand side.
| Distance: | 2 km one way. Return via the same track. |
| Walking time: | 30 minutes one way |
| Fitness level: | Low to moderate |
| Track type: | Mostly unformed, crossing grassland with multiple fence crossings |
If you have time, you can continue north along Ripiro Beach towards the small settlement of Aranga Beach at the base of Maunganui Bluff. That’s just over 12 km return which will take you an extra 3 – 4 hours.
If you do decide to walk all the way to Maunganui Bluff and back, it’s best to do it around low tide. You can check the latest tide reports here. Also bear in mind that beach access is limited to the intertidal zone up to the high tide mark. Beyond this is private land.
Before walking, it’s always best to check the DOC website for any alerts and updates on track closures.
Once you reach the usual green and yellow DOC board that marks the start of the track you’ll climb over a fence into a farmer’s field. It’s worth noting that this is a working farm so you may well encounter livestock. We came across some cows on our walk but they simply looked at us warily before disappearing over the hill in a mini stampede.
The start of the track isn’t particularly distinct but there are a few poles and orange DOC markers that lead the way. For the most part you’ll simply follow the fenceline towards the sea, crossing over occasionally using fence stiles.
This isn’t a strenuous walk by any means and apart from one steep set of stairs to climb there’s nothing especially challenging. By the looks of things it can get a little boggy and potholed in places thanks to the cows but it was all pretty dry when we walked.
After the short step workout, the track descends gently to a final fence and gate that overlooks the sea. From here the track is more distinct as it makes its way through a small grove of pōhutukawa trees before depositing you onto a lookout above Ripiro beach.
What you see will of course depend on the tide, but when we walked, the tide was out so we were greeted with a wide sandy beach. There are steps that will take you down onto the beach and from here you can walk as far as the tide will allow.
Looking south, the beach disappears off into the hazy distance and to the north you’ll see the imposing outline of Maunganui Bluff. Apart from two cars that drove past in the space of an hour, we pretty much had the whole place to ourselves, and since we were in no hurry, we wondered a little way up the coast, admiring the colourful sandstone cliffs. And here’s a fun fact for you. Ripiro is actually New Zealand’s longest drivable beach, longer in fact than more famous 90 Mile Beach.
Interestingly, just north of where the track reaches the beach there’s an unusual section of what looks like stratified lignite that shows evidence of the ancient forests that must have once lined this coastline.
Then of course there’s the little surprise we mentioned at the start – a refreshing natural shower, perfect for cooling off in the heat of the day or rinsing off if you decide to swim in the sea.
Overall we thoroughly enjoyed walking the Kai Iwi Lakes Coastal Track. Ripiro Beach feels remote and untouched and, along with the lakes themselves, we think this a place worth visiting as you unhurriedly explore the west coast.
Kai Iwi Lakes Coastal Track map
If you haven’t already, clicking on the blue map at the top of the page will take you to Google Maps where you can do the usual Google Map things. The topographical map below shows the track, marked as a dashed line that makes its way from Kai Iwi Lakes Road towards the beach.
If you’re interested to find out more about the Taharoa Domain, head over to our Kai Iwi Lakes page where you can read about things to do and places to stay.
Looking for more ideas on places to see when visiting the Northland region? Have a look at our guide, Top things to do in Northland.
Camp at Kai Iwi Lakes
Blue gems
Kai Iwi Lakes
Located in the Taharoa Domain recreation reserve on the upper west coast of the North Island, Kai Iwi Lakes is a group of freshwater dune lakes known for their crystal clear water. If you’re planning a Northland itinerary and looking for things to do and places to stay along the west coast, a stopover at these lakes is a definite must-do.
So how do we go about describing the spectacular beauty of these Northland gems? Perhaps the best way is to simply show you with a video from our most recent visit. We’d travelled up from Auckland on a Friday after work and spent the weekend walking (more on that later), paddle boarding and just generally having fun in the water.
Not to be confused with Kai Iwi Beach near Whanganui, Kai Iwi Lakes is just under 3 hours drive north of Auckland and only 35 minutes north of Dargaville. Heading north from Dargaville along Highway 12, after 24 km, look for signs marked Omamari and Kai Iwi Lakes. Turn left into Omamari Road and then, after 8 km, follow the road right into Kai Iwi Lakes Road. Continue heading north until you see the big blue sign at the main entrance to Taharoa Domain on your right.
Here are approximate travel times and distances to Kai Iwi Lakes.
- Auckland to Kai Iwi: 210 km / 130 miles – 2 hours 55 minutes
- Whangarei to Kai Iwi (via Dargaville): 92 km / 57 miles – 1 hour 30 minutes
- Dargaville to Kai Iwi: 35 km / 22 miles – 35 minutes
- Paihia (Bay of Islands) to Kai Iwi (via Kaikohe and Kaihu on unsealed route): 110 km / 68 miles – 2 hours 20 minutes
- Paihia (Bay of Islands) to Kai Iwi (via Whangarei): 160 km / 99 miles – 2 hours 20 minutes
- Waipoua Forest (Tāne Mahuta) to Kai Iwi: 50 km / 31 miles – 1 hour
Bear in mind that travel times can vary significantly, particularly in popular areas during peak visitor months (December – February). For current travel times and updates on delays, roadworks and road closures, use the NZ Transport Agency journey planner before travelling.
Generally speaking, sand dune lakes are quite uncommon, occurring in only a few countries around the world. These lakes are formed when rain or spring water accumulates in depressions between sand dunes and is trapped there as a result of impermeable layers beneath the sand.
In New Zealand, Northland is unique in having over 400 hundred dune lakes and of those, the Kai Iwi Lakes are particularly special in terms of both size and depth. In fact Lake Taharoa, the largest in the group, is one of the deepest dune lakes of its kind in the world. There are three lakes within the Taharoa Domain.
Lake Kai Iwi
At the south eastern end is Lake Kai Iwi (Translation: food for the people), the smallest and shallowest of the three, covering 27.6 hectares with a maximum recorded depth of 15.7 metres. When water levels are high, there is a drain that flows from Lake Kai Iwi to Lake Taharoa.
Lake Waikare
At the northwestern end is Lake Waikare (Translation: rippling water). Covering 29 hectares, it is not much larger than Lake Kai Iwi but at 29.5 meters, it is significantly deeper.
Lake Taharoa
Sandwiched between the other two lakes, Lake Taharoa (Translation: long calabash) is the largest, covering an area of 197.7 hectares, and also the deepest at a maximum depth of 38.8 metres.
There are no large rivers or streams flowing into these lakes and so they are fed by rainfall via the surrounding catchment made up of mostly native scrub and commercial pine forest that is slowly being removed. Then of course there’s the rain that falls on the lakes directly, all of which contributes to the lakes’ exceptional water quality. In fact the water in Lake Taharoa is so clear that it contains some of the deepest growing submerged vegetation in the North Island, at 24m.
Of course, being solely dependent on localised rainfall, the level of the lakes can fluctuate significantly between the wet and dry seasons and this also makes them very susceptible to pollution. Water temperatures can also vary significantly, with extremes of 12.8 °C / 55 °F and 21.8 °C / 71.2 °F having been recorded.
Kai Iwi Lakes history
Before Europeans arrived, as the name suggests, the lakes were an important source of food for the local Māori. The eastern shore of Lake Taharoa, what is now Pine Beach, was also used as a camp during the summer.
By the late 1800s, European kauri gum diggers had begun to set up camp in the area and by the early 1920s as many as 100 people were believed to have lived around the lake shores. Despite attempts to drain and bore the surrounding swamps, the diggers has little success and by the late 1920s, most had left. Fortunately today, few signs of their operations remain.
In 1928, land on the eastern shore of Lake Taharoa was set aside as a scenic reserve. Over the years, the lakes and more of the surrounding area was added to become the Taharoa Domain, which now covers 538 hectares.
Things to do at Kai Iwi Lakes
As you would expect at such a popular holiday spot, there is no shortage of things to do in and around the lakes. Most people come to spend time on the water with Lake Taharoa being the most popular lake for water skiing, wakeboarding and tubing.
While you can launch boats on Lake Waikare, because of its size, craft are restricted to 5 knots. No motorised craft can be launched on Lake Kai Iwi although you can paddle and swim in this lake.
Swimming is most popular at Pine Beach, on the eastern shore of Lake Taharoa where there is a reserved swimming area. One thing to be mindful of, particularly if you’re not confident in deeper water, is that while it’s possible to wade out quite far from the shore, the lake floor drops away steeply once you reach the edge of the shallow white sand.
Sailing and windsurfing is also popular as is kayaking and stand up paddle boarding, particularly early in the morning when you’re likely to get the best water. That said, an evening/late night paddle under the stars is still something we’d like to do.
Kai Iwi Lakes walks and cycling
There is a network of shared walking and cycling tracks that circle all three lakes and this is a good way to explore the area. Alternatively, if you just want a birds eye view of Lake Taharoa, there’s a steep by short track that climbs to the top of the hill behind Pine Beach campground. It’s well worth it for the view, particularly at sunset as you may have seen in our video.
We can also recommend the Kai Iwi Lakes Coastal Track which starts near the bottom of Lake Waikare and crosses farmland to Ripiro Beach which feels remote and untouched. You might find that you have the beach entirely to yourself plus there’s a little surprise in store when you get there.
It’s an easy 5 km walk to the beach and back if you park near the Promenade Point campground and it will take around 35 minutes each way. If you have the time, you can continue north along the beach all the way to Maunganui Bluff but that will be a further 12 km return. You can read more about this track here, Walking the Kai Iwi Lakes Coastal Track.
Fishing
Rainbow trout were introduced to the lakes in 1968 and seem to have thrived, so much so that there is an annual trout fishing competition held in June/July each year. Bear in mind that a license is required if you want to fish for trout. You can pick up a license from authorised agents and sport shops in Dargaville.
Kai Iwi Lakes camping & accommodation
If you’re driving along the west coast on Highway 12, possibly having just visited Tāne Mahuta, New Zealand’s largest known living kauri tree, you should definitely stop in at the lakes, even if it’s just to take a short break from driving. However, if your itinerary allows for it, consider staying overnight at one of the two campgrounds in the domain.
Pine Beach campground
Located on the eastern shore of Lake Taharoa, Pine Beach Campground is the larger and more developed camping ground in the domain. Its location and facilities make it one of our favourite Northland camping grounds, at least on the west coast.
There are both powered and non-powered sites suitable for campervans, motorhomes, caravans and tents with two flushing toilet blocks and washing and showering facilities. As at the time of writing (November 2018) it costs $2 for hot water when showering. There are also drinking water taps located throughout the campsite. The main office for the domain is located at Pine Beach and you need to check-in here before setting up camp. There is also a small mobile shop during the peak summer season (December – February). Speaking of summer season, the campgrounds get really busy during the summer and on holiday long weekend so advance booking is definitely advisable. You can check availability and make bookings on the Kaipara District website for Kai Iwi Lakes.
Promenade Point campground
Promenade Point is a smaller campsite located on the western shore of Lake Taharoa. It’s less developed than Pine Beach and has more of a back to nature feel to it with no powered sites. There are flushing toilets and drinking water but no shower facilities. You’d have to head over to Pine Beach for a hot shower.
Nearby accommodation options
If you find that the main Taharoa Domain campsites are fully booked or if you’re not setup for camping and need some alternative accommodation don’t worry. Below is some accommodation for you to consider, all within 40 minutes drive from the lakes.
Wai Hou Oma Lodge
If you’re looking for comfortable self-contained accommodation that’s conveniently close to the lakes, you can’t do much better than Wai Hou Oma. They have 3 private lodges that can accommodate 2 to 6 guests. Check availability.
Kai Iwi Lakes Resort
Located just a few minutes from the lakes along Kai Iwi Lakes Road, the resort has 4 self-contained baches (holiday homes) that can accommodate 2 to 14 guests. Check availability.
Willowdale
Willowdale is a private holiday house on Kai Iwi Lakes Road literally 5 minutes from the lakes. The self-contained cottage can accommodate up to 6 guests. Check availability.
Holiday Parks
Holiday parks offer a range of accommodation types from powered and non-powered campsites to cabins and motel style rooms and in some cases backpacker dorm rooms. Here are some nearby holiday parks to consider:
Trounson Kauri Park Campground
Trounson is a serviced Department of Conservation (DOC) campground approximately 30 minutes north of Kai Iwi Lakes. It has both powered and non-powered sites with flushing toilet and cooking facilities. Bookings are not required, it’s first come, first served. You can read more and check fees here.
Freedom Camping
As at the time of writing (November 2018), freedom camping is not permitted anywhere within Taharoa Domain. While there are a number of spots around both Lake Taharoa and Lake Waikare where it’s possible to park up, these spots are for day visitors only. Stay overnight at your own risk as campground managers do patrol the domain.
Kai Iwi Lakes weather
There’s no denying that the lakes look their most spectacular when it’s bright and sunny. To see if you’re going to have that perfect day, you can check the latest Kai Iwi Lakes weather forecast on MetService.com.
While MetService does provide rain forecast maps, these cover the entire country. To check more detailed local weather conditions and forecasts including wind, rain, temperature and cloud cover we use, and highly recommend, Windy.com.
Area map
If you haven’t already, clicking on the blue map at the top of the page will take you to Google Maps where you can do the usual Google Map things. You might also find the Kai Iwi Lake topographical map below of some use, particularly if you’re planning on walking the Kai Iwi Lakes Coastal Track to Ripiro Beach.
We’ve already mentioned the Kai Iwi Lakes Coastal Track and walking along Ripiro Beach to Maunganui Bluff. If you’re wanting something a little more strenuous, you could also climb to the top of Maunganui Bluff. You can read about the track here.
Looking for more ideas on things to do and places to see when visiting the Northland region? Have a look at our guide, Top things to do in Northland.
Roys Peak Track map
Roys Peak Track map
Roys Peak is a popular walking track that starts just outside the lakeside town of Wanaka. It offers spectacular views of Lake Wanaka and the surrounding area but at just over 15km return and with an elevation gain of over 1200m it requires a good level of fitness.
| Distance: | 15.6km (9.7 miles) return, via the same track |
| Walking time: | 5 – 6 hours return |
| Fitness level: | Moderate to High |
| Start elevation: | 336m |
| End elevation: | 1578m |
| Elevation gain: | 1242m (4074 feet) |
| Track type: | Dirt farm road/track becoming single gravel track. Well formed and easy to follow. |
| Track start coordinates: | 44°40’24.5″S 169°04’18.4″E NTZM: 5045810N 1288640E Google Maps: -44.6734826,169.0717873 |
| GPX file: | Download Roys Peak GPX file |
Roys Peak Track route map and elevation profile
Want to see photos from the Roys Peak Track and read about our experience there? Visit Walking the Roys Peak Track.
Disclaimer
While every attempt has been made to provide useful and accurate information, OutThere.Kiwi assumes no responsibility for the accuracy of this information and cannot be held responsible for any direct or indirect damages resulting from the use or misuse of this information.
Topographic map data on this page is sourced from the LINZ Data Service https://data.linz.govt.nz/ and licensed by LINZ for re-use under the Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 New Zealand licence. Elevation data is sourced from NASA’s SRTM1 (Space Shuttle Radar Topography Mission) database.
Hooker Valley Track map
Hooker Valley Track map
The Hooker Valley Track is the most popular walk in the Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park. This 3 hour, 10 km (6 miles return) walk is family-friendly and will reward you with stunning views of New Zealand’s highest mountain, Aoraki/Mount Cook.
| Distance: | 10 km (6.2 miles) return, via the same track starting from White Horse Hill campground. Add another 3.5 km if starting from the DOC visitor centre. |
| Walking time: | 3 – 4 hours return. Add another 1 hour if starting from the DOC visitor centre. |
| Fitness level: | Low to moderate |
| Start elevation: | 763m |
| End elevation: | 887m |
| Elevation gain: | 124m (407 feet) |
| Track type: | A well formed gravel track with a section of wooden boardwalk. |
| Track start coordinates: | 43°43’09.1″S 170°05’37.4″E NZTM: 5155208N 1365891E Google Maps: -43.7191851,170.0937197 |
| GPX file: | Download Hooker Valley Track GPX file |
Hooker Valley Track route map and elevation profile
Want to see photos from the Hooker Valley Track and read about our experience there? Visit Walking the Hooker Valley Track.
Disclaimer
While every attempt has been made to provide useful and accurate information, OutThere.Kiwi assumes no responsibility for the accuracy of this information and cannot be held responsible for any direct or indirect damages resulting from the use or misuse of this information.
Topographic map data on this page is sourced from the LINZ Data Service https://data.linz.govt.nz/ and licensed by LINZ for re-use under the Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 New Zealand licence. Elevation data is sourced from NASA’s SRTM1 (Space Shuttle Radar Topography Mission) database.
Cape Brett Track map
Cape Brett Track map
Best tackled over two days, the 30 km (18.6 miles return) Cape Brett Track is challenging and requires a high level of fitness. However, stunning sea views and a night spent in the former lighthouse keeper’s cottage at the end of this rugged peninsula will more than make up for it.
| Distance: | 15 km (9.3 miles) one way. Return via the same track. |
| Walking time: | 6 – 8 hours one way |
| Fitness level: | High |
| Start elevation | 13m |
| End elevation: | 31m |
| Highest point: | 347m (1138 feet) |
| Track type: | A steep, rough track with unbridged stream crossings and steep drop-offs. Can be very muddy in places. |
| Track start coordinates: | 35°13’40.8″S 174°15’48.3″E NZTM: 6100940N 1714971E Google Maps: -35.2279879,174.2634255 |
| GPX file: | Download Cape Brett GPX |
Cape Brett Track route map and elevation profile
Want to see photos from the Cape Brett Track and read about our experience there? Visit Walking the Cape Brett Track.
Disclaimer
While every attempt has been made to provide useful and accurate information, OutThere.Kiwi assumes no responsibility for the accuracy of this information and cannot be held responsible for any direct or indirect damages resulting from the use or misuse of this information.
Topographic map data on this page is sourced from the LINZ Data Service https://data.linz.govt.nz/ and licensed by LINZ for re-use under the Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 New Zealand licence. Elevation data is sourced from NASA’s SRTM1 (Space Shuttle Radar Topography Mission) database.
Visit Punakaiki Pancake Rocks
A West Coast must-do
Punakaiki Pancake Rocks
Rocks. Every country has them, and for the most part we tend to ignore them unless they’re falling off cliffs or being thrown in our general direction. But then there are rocks that amaze and fascinate us like The Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland or, one of our favourites, Wave Rock in Western Australia.
Here in New Zealand, we have our own interesting rock formations and most famous of them all has got to be Punakaiki’s incredible Pancake Rocks and Blowholes, situated about 40 km north of Greymouth on the South Island’s West Coast. If you’re touring the South Island, a road trip along the picturesque Great Coast Road (Highway 6) should definitely be on your itinerary in which case it’s pretty much mandatory to stop and stretch your legs at Punakaiki.
The rocks themselves are just a short walk from the Paparoa National Park visitor centre parking along a well maintained pathway. The looped walk will take you anything from about 20 minutes to an hour depending on how many photos you feel compelled to take… which will be many. There are also several signs along the way with interesting facts and information on how these limestone layers were formed some 30 million years ago.
The multi-layered rock stacks, narrow channels and churning surge pools are certainly a sight to see, but it’s at high tide, particularly on big swell days, when things really become interesting. That’s when the blowholes come alive. Unfortunately when we visited, time was against us, so we didn’t get to experience them as much as we would have liked. But that just means another visit is called for and next time, we’ll spend more time exploring not only the rocks but also Punakaiki Cavern and nearby Truman Track. We may even try some real pancakes at Pancake Rocks Cafe. ?
Visit Hokitika Gorge
Unbelievably blue
Hokitika Gorge
We know it sounds like a bit of a cliche, but Hokitika Gorge, or more specifically, the incredible turquoise river that flows through the gorge is something you really have to see to believe. While not unique to the Hokitika river, or even New Zealand for that matter, the colour of this river is for many a unique experience that’s well worth the short 33km drive from Hokitika town itself.
So how does the water get this blue colour you ask? Well it’s all down to something called ‘rock flour’ which is ground down mineral-rich schist rock and sandstone which is so fine that instead of settling to the bottom of the river it remains suspended in the water as it flows down from the southern alps through what some refer to as Hokitika blue gorge.
As you can see from the rather sad looking riding boots, we didn’t visit in the best of weather. We’d spent the previous night in the little town of Murchison near Nelson Lakes and managed to dodge the rain all the way down the West Coast, stopping in to see the amazing Pancake Rocks at Punakaiki before continuing to Hokitika where we checked into the equally amazing Rimu Lodge. Since our plan was to leave the next morning for Hanmer Springs via Arthur’s Pass we thought we’d take the gap in the weather to go and visit the gorge despite the rather ominous looking clouds to the east.
Sure enough, as we headed along the zig-zagging road just north of the gorge, the weather closed in so that by the time we reached the carpark I was a little ‘grumpy’ as Debs would put it. But we’d come this far so in our riding gear and in the rain, we walked along the short track to the swing bridge and then on to the edge of the river itself.
The sight of the river certainly lifted our spirits and so we made a promise to ourselves that we would come back on a better day and explore the area some more. So we will, and another visit to see the amazing blue water at Hokitika Gorge is a must-do on our next South Island itinerary.